Delta’s ball valve has been in production for decades and is still used in the Foundations line. It drips when the two small rubber seats and springs under the ball wear out, and it leaks around the cap when the cam and packing on top of the ball wears or the adjusting ring loosens. A rebuild with the RP3614 kit fixes both and takes about 30 minutes.
Before you start. Shut off the two small valves under the sink by turning them clockwise, then open the faucet to confirm the water has stopped. Plug the drain so small parts cannot fall in. You will need a screwdriver, an adjustable wrench or pliers, and for most handles a hex key (an Allen wrench, sold as an inexpensive set at any hardware store). If a shutoff valve will not turn or starts to drip, or anything is corroded and will not loosen with moderate force, stop and see when to call a plumber. New to this? Start here explains the parts and tools in plain language.
Not sure this is your faucet? See how to identify your Delta cartridge without a model number, or how to find your brand and model.
This procedure is for faucets with a slotted ball and seats and springs. If your model number ends in DST, you have a DIAMOND Seal cartridge; use the DST guide instead.
Parts and tools
- Delta RP3614 repair kit. Contains two seats and springs (RP4993), two spout O-rings (RP25), a lever cam and packing (RP61), a knob cam and packing, and the 1/8 inch hex key and adjusting ring tool. The ball is not included. RP3614 at DeltaFaucet.com. Delta RP3614 repair kit on Amazon
- RP70 stainless ball if yours is pitted or scored (RP212 for knob handles). Genuine Delta balls have four holes; hardware store copies have three. RP70 at DeltaFaucet.com. Delta RP70 ball on Amazon
- Tongue and groove pliers and a rag to protect the cap finish
- Needle nose pliers
- A bucket to catch flushing water
Shut off both supply stops under the sink and open the faucet to drain it. Plug the drain.
Steps
- Pry off the red and blue button on the handle. Loosen the set screw underneath with the 1/8 inch hex key and lift the handle off.
- If the leak is only at the cap and the faucet is older, try tightening the adjusting ring first by turning it clockwise with the ring tool or needle nose pliers. If that stops the leak, you are done. If not, continue.
- Unscrew the adjusting ring. Wrap the cap in a rag and unscrew it with the pliers.
- Lift out the cam and packing, then the ball by its stem.
- Hook each rubber seat and spring out of the two ports in the body with the hex key.
- Remove the aerator, hold a bucket upside down over the spout, and open the supply stops for a minute to flush grit out of the body. Close them again.
- Thread a new seat onto the hex key, slide a spring on behind it with the wide end of the spring toward the seat, and tip the pair into a port. Repeat for the second port.
- Set the ball into the body with the slot in the ball over the pin in the body.
- Place the new cam and packing over the ball with its tab in the slot on the body. Delta’s current one-piece cam does not use the old adjusting ring; discard the ring.
- Hand-thread the cap on, then snug it with the pliers. Reinstall the handle and button. Open the stops slowly and test. If the cap weeps, tighten it a little more.
Spout leaks at the base
While the faucet is apart, lift the spout off the body and replace the two large O-rings with the RP25 rings in the kit. Coat them lightly with silicone grease before sliding the spout back on.
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